It was into India again. This time the Nepalese Immigration and customs was a breeze. I hadn’t even got to the Indian Immigration when Indian security wanted to search my bike. He wanted to look inside my panniers, so I unlocked them and he rifled his way through. Then he wanted to check my roll bag on the back of the bike. I told him it was full of camping gear and would take some time to get off. He insisted. So off came the gear and I opened the bag. What really frustrated me he didn’t even check the gear. What’s the point in doing a search if you don’t actually look at the items? It was just a massive time waste. That took an hour. Once I had got everything back on the bike I had to go to Immigration. Immigration was reasonably quick once I’d filled in the arrival card. From there I headed up the road to Customs to get my carnet stamped in. The guy on the counter thought he was something special and looked like he was a wannabe Bollywood star. He was very abrupt and started shouting the odds. I reminded him that he needed to stress less and calm down. I told him I don’t expect to be talked to like that and he needs to show some professional etiquette. After that he did calm down. I had to get a photocopy of my photo page of my passport and the visa so I had to walk across the street and pay 10 Rupees.
It was absolute chaos at the border you couldn’t move for Lorries, cars, motorbikes, rickshaws, and people. It was dirty and dusty and the streets were full of rubbish.
I headed off south towards Viranasi which is a sacred spot on the Ganges. I didn’t make it there today I only got to Bhauvapar.
I had a night of broken sleep. The Hotel was next to a main road and the Lorrys and cars kept tooting their horns all night.
I awoke tired and a bit subdued. I went for breakfast and had a chicken sandwich. In Asia everything is fried, high sugar or salt so the prospect of having non fried food was appealing. I would later live to regret this decision.
The road to Varanasi was pretty poor in places. The government have committed to have this rectified in the next three years.
I would ride through one chaotic town, then across the plains until I got to the next chaotic town. The gaps between towns got shorter and shorter.
When I entered Varanasi, the place was in grid lock. My panniers have the evidence as cyclists. Rickshaws and cars all left their signature on them.
In Asia no motorcycle has their lights on during the day. In the west we have no option as there is no switch to turn them off. Every day I have dozens of people motion me that my lights are on. I am probably the only motorcycle on this continent with my lights on, yet I nearly ran over three people today two women and one guy. They didn’t even look. Maybe they want to leave this earth and go to a better place. To miss the guy, I slammed my brakes on an ended up touching him with my mirror a guy on a motorcycle then ran into the back of me bending my number plate.
I was having no fun at all and all i wanted to do was get out of there, but I hadn’t come this far to give up, I’d seen many documentaries on this place and I’d always promised myself this would be one place I would see.
I took a road that headed towards the Ganges; it was very narrow, only wide enough for a car. When I got to the end there was no parking. I parked my bike next to some steps as instructed by the hoards of people. I later found out why this road had to be kept clear, it was the route that the family and friends stretchered the deceased to the pyre.
I was having a real problem trying to find a hotel so I headed to the nearest major town Allahabad. The light had faded and now it was dark. The traffic was terrible and it was very difficult to see. Bikes and rickshaws with no lights, lorries that do, or do not have lights, cars with one light working and the other on high beam, black cows lying in the middle of the road, a recipe for disaster.
I’d entered a hotel in the GPS and rode through this terrible traffic to find when I eventually got there, there were blocks of apartments. The sense of disappointment was high. I searched the GPS for another hotel. That was 8km, at least half an hour away. I headed towards that. About 5 minutes into the journey, I spotted a place called Temptation and Guest House. I pulled in feeling totally exhausted and asked if they had a room for the night. The guy told me they were a restaurant and the guest house were rooms for wedding parties. I thanked him and walked back over to the bike. Just as I was about to get on, he came over and said he had a room that was vacant and I could have that. I was very thankful and asked how much. He said he would give it to me for free. Mr Amitc Joehoray is the owner and he couldn’t have been more accommodating. He asked me what I wanted to eat and he arranged it. The food was of high quality and free of charge. Then he said he had an air-conditioned room and would have his boy move my gear there. He had tea, coffee, bottled drinking water, biscuits and his own personal kettle sent to my room. He left a phone with me and said if I required anything just call him any time, no problem.
I was feeling rough this morning and the stomach seemed to be getting worse. Amitc had breakfast of Bananas, dried toast, boiled eggs and coffee sent to his office where he kindly let me use his computer to contact Triumph India. Winston is not well either. He is making a “tick tock” noise between 2000 and 4000 revs. It sounds like its coming from the lower part of the engine. I thought it might have been the automatic cam chain tensioner. I will have to go to Delhi to get it looked at.
I thanked Amitc for his outstanding generosity and headed towards Agra. Once out of Allahabad I was onto the National Highway and it was remarkably free of traffic. By mid-day I had the shakes and was freezing cold even though the temperature was in the high 20’s. I pulled over to the side of the road and lay in a field, all the time being watched by prying eyes. I just didn’t care.
I lay there for an hour until I had warmed up and was now feeling delirious. It was a real effort to get up, it was if my back was velcroed to the ground. I gingerly made my way back to the bike and got some Aspirins from my first aid kit. I took them in front of my 20 something audience. Again, for the second night in a row I arrived in the dark. This time the traffic in Agra was much better than the other places I’d been to.
Today I was too occupied by the Delhi Belly to do anything. It’s ironic that I’ve actually come down with Delhi Belly only 240km from Delhi.
Since exiting Nepal and entering India I have noticed an overabundance of flies. I don’t know whether it’s the time of year or the rubbish lining the streets, stagnant water in the drains or cow droppings. It’s that bad in places I make sure I don’t open my mouth.
I rode through one town the other day and pulled over to the side of the road to get some freshly cooked samosas. They were that fresh they hadn’t been taken out of the fryer. As I got closer to the stall, I could see hundreds of flies. The guy cooking took the samosas out of the oil and within seconds most of the flies were at them. He placed them in a basket and then placed a lid over the basket to keep the flies out. The only trouble with that, there would have been scores of flies trapped in the basket. I decided to give them a miss and ride on. It’s no wonder most tourists who come to India experience the Delhi Belly.
I was still feeling no better but decided to get out and see some of the sites as I need to leave Agra tomorrow and make my way to Delhi. To make it easier I hired a Tuk Tuk for half a day. It cost NZ$10 and the driver dropped me off at the places I wanted to see and then waited until I returned.
When I was a boy of 7, I got for Christmas, a children’s encyclopaedia. It had various sections. The country we live in, world maps, inventions and technology, the animal world, arts and culture, sport. I loved this book. It was full colour which at the time was rare. I would read this from cover to cover and tell myself when I grow up, I’m going to see these things. I still have this book all dog eared and worn and I have seen many of the things and places that are within.
Today I went to one of those places, it was the Taj Mahal and it was stunning. It’s better than I imagined it would be. It is a work of art.
The Taj Mahal was Commissioned in 1632 by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal. The marble was brought in from over 300km away and it took 22 years to complete.
From there it was off to Agra fort and then Mini Taj. Both were good in their own rights.
I made my way to Delhi to get Winston looked at. The traffic was heavy but at least it was moving. I arrived at the address Triumph India had given me and went into the shop. The guys were welcoming and the show room was new and had a great range of Triumphs. The unfortunate thing was this is not where the workshop is, it is 20km away. They printed me off a map and off I went. The only trouble with the map it didn’t have any street addresses and there was no address for the final destination. I had to pull up twice and use stranger’s phones to get further clarification of where the workshop was. I got there about 4pm. The mechanic reckoned he knew what the problem was and ended up tightening one of the lower engine mount bolts. This is hidden beneath two round head bolts.
I then took it for a ride and I felt I could hear the knocking noise. The mechanic took it for a ride and said it was the chain. I said the chain and sprockets are still in great condition. He said it was the chain.
I left at 7pm and tried to find a hotel.
I had been thinking overnight in my most expensive hotel I have stayed at yet that I just did not believe the knocking noise was the chain so I went back to the workshop. I decided to get my 40,000km service done early as my next stops are Pakistan and Iran and there are no Triumph dealers in those countries.
The guy who needed to test ride the bike was not there today and tomorrow so I will need to go back on Thursday. I left at 7pm and looked for a hotel for the night.
I stayed another night at the expensive Hotel. The Wi-Fi is great and the bed is so comfortable. I won’t be staying here another night it’s time to get some reasonably priced accommodation.
I went back down to the Triumph workshop and got my 40,000km service done 5k early. I’d rather have this done now as I won’t be able to get it done in Pakistan or Iran.
They gave the throttle bodies and butterflies a real good clean, also the stepper motor arm as well as the other usual things. They also gave Winston a thorough clean.
Day 206 Thursday 26th March 2015
I went back into the Triumph workshop to discuss the knocking noise. We decided to change the chain and sprockets. It wasn’t until we had the chain off the drive sprocket that it was obvious what the problem was. The drive sprocket was badly worn.
The dealer only sells the chain and sprocket kit so I had to buy that. I kept the old chain and rear sprocket as they are in great condition. Ill reuses them at some point.
While I was there, I asked if they had a new rear tyre. They did and it was the standard issue Tiger one. It was Rp 16800, NZ$345 which is even more expensive than back home. I decided to leave it for the time being and calculate how many km I need to do before I get into Turkey.
Day 207 Friday 27th March 2015
Last night I calculated that I needed to do a minimum of 6000km. I don’t think the Heidenau will last that long and I know my original tyre only lasted about 7000km. There was only one thing for it I would leave the Heidenau on and begrudgingly buy the other tyre and carry it with me until I need it.
Winston is almost like new again and we are chomping at the bit to get going.
I am behind schedule mainly due to the 20,000km service over the Christmas break and my trip through Myanmar. I really need to head to London as the crow flies. It looks like I will have to cancel the Morocco leg which is a real shame. The upside was I rode Myanmar and that was not in the plan and it was much better than flying the bike from Bangkok to Kathmandu.
I Skyped home and all the family were there. Its great chatting to them. They know how to make me laugh.
The one thing about solo travel is you don’t really have an opportunity to have a good conversation and a good laugh. The majority of the people I meet don’t speak English and if they do I have to speak slowly because of my accent.
I normally get the same questions in this order. Where are you from? How much does the bike cost? Where are you going?
I headed towards Amritsar which is North West of Delhi. It took a couple of hours to get out of Delhi and the temperature was getting hot. It must have been in the high 30’s.
The bike is feeling a bit top heavy with the spare tyre sitting on the top box.
In one of the towns the road I was riding along ended at a bridge that was still under construction. The road was closed. There was no detour sign so I motioned one of the locals which way to go and he pointed to the way I had come. The only trouble with heading back was that there was no road only a track that went over dirt and sand, in essence a building site right next to houses. The track was marginally wider than my bike in places. I had no option I had to ride this way to get out. So off I went through all the whooped-out sections and then I rode by the houses with my handle bars mm away from the bricks all the time the ground was getting bumpier and bumpier. At the very narrowest section my left pannier clipped a piece of concrete jutting out and gravity took its course. No damage to the bike but Winston was lying on his left side on a pile of dirt. Within seconds some locals came out and straight away helped me lift the bike up. I thanked them for their help and off I went.
I asked another local which way to Amritsar. He had no English but motioned to follow his friend on his motorbike, which I did.
He took me to this one lane sandy track by the canal and said turn left in 1.5km. The track was bumpy, sandy and at quite an angle in places. After 1.5km I saw a main road and was back on my way.
I am in the Punjab region and many of the locals are Sieks. They wear turbans. Riding across India is like riding across different countries. Different facial features ranging from Chinese, to very black almost African with European mix. There are many different religions from Buddhism, Hinduism, Christianity and Islam. India is a very diverse place.
I covered 260km today and ended the day at Sangrur.
It was a pleasant ride through the country side to Amritsar and the famous Golden temple.
On the way the GPS sent me down yet another two roads that were dead ends to new bridges under construction.
The traffic was reasonably light today as its Sunday. The temperature was cooler and there was a big crosswind for most of the day. There were a couple of spots of rain but nothing of substance.
I pulled in for lunch at a restaurant at the side of the road. There was a large sign with a picture of a cheeseburger that looked so tasty I had to investigate. The guy couldn’t speak English so I walked over to the sign and pointed. He motioned he could make it so I waited and grabbed a bottle of cold water. When the burger was completed, it looked nothing like the picture but tasted pretty good. It was full of noodles.
When I went to pay the boss gave me my money back and said “no charge” Another kind act by a complete stranger.
Day 210 Monday 30th March 2015
I stayed an extra day in Amritsar to give my leg some time to recuperate and sort my banking needs for Iran and Pakistan.
In Iran they do not accept credit cards and have no ATM machines so I needed to get some US dollars to exchange for their currency.
The ATM machines by the hotel were not working so I had to hobble up and down the street in the rain to find one that would issue cash.
I stayed an extra day in Amritsar to give my leg some time to recuperate and sort my banking needs for Iran and Pakistan.
In Iran they do not accept credit cards and have no ATM machines so I needed to get some US dollars to exchange for their currency.
The ATM machines by the hotel were not working so I had to hobble up and down the street in the rain to find one that would issue cash.
I headed to the border with India and Pakistan at Wagah. There were very few people there and it was straight forward.